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Twin Peeks: Bryan-College Station
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' s , . . - - • • • -, " ,, . . . . „ . • , • , _ -. . - • , , • , _ , • . ‘ . , 7,, ,„.., r _ - - • , .: *•0•,-1. '' ' •- • - „ . . 1,,,I. ..„, „, . - -.• - , . - , . , , - • , • - , .. TEXAS HIGHWAYS N OVEMBER 1997 Sites in This Issue FEATURES 4 BRINGING UP LA BELLE: LA SALLE'S LOST SHIP by Gene Fowler Discovered in 1995 in the murky waters of Matagorda Bay, the Belle has been called "the most important shipwreck ever found in North America." The recently completed excavation of the French frigate and her 300-year-old cargo is shedding new light on the past Page 34 • Page 14 14 • TWIN PEEKS: BRYAN STATION by Howard Peacock and Diane Morey Sitton Page 44 • page 4 Sure, you know about Texas A&M's academic, athletic, and military achievements, but Aggieland also boasts several world -class art collections. Sister cities College Station and Bryan complement the school's softer side with a —� page 2 2 full slate of cultural and recreational activities = �� \e 22 pa 4 THE JIVE ON THE JUKES by Gene Fowler ' _ _- y �� \ At Smitty's Jukebox Museum in Pharr, four dozen fully restored, - ` ; � vintage music machines gleam, glow, bubble, and yes, rock 'n' roll. :k u l ` Everything works, and patrons can play the old platters as long ,ry C . y • . : 0 r ; .a i �� as the nickels hold out I *- )...-. --- _I . - -- , , ,., 1_ _'_. — �. ; - ,.--f 7 :1"-- ,. 26 1 , ,, . , 8 ' SEASON OF DELIGHT by Jack Lowry .� l Contrary to popular belief, Texas has its share of beautiful fall foliage. 1 ' 1 ` ; 1 . :. To see for yourself, head to some of the state's hot spots, and let , ` the autumn leaves blow you away • .' 1, - , 34 page 34 A CAPITAL AVENUE by Rosemary Williams For almost 160 years, Congress Avenue has formed the heart of Austin's vibrant downtown. Today, a walking tour of "the Avenue" and its cross streets offers an unparalleled perspective . on Austin's history a 44 l s TEXAS SPINACH: GLORIOUS GREENS by Lana Robinson Bet you didn't know that the Lone Star State has long been a top spinach producer. Crystal City, in the heart of Texas' Winter Garden, celebrates its leafy legacy with a festival each November and even displays a statue of Popeye DEPARTMENTS ABOUT OUR COVERS FRONT— Backlit by morning sun, the 2 LETTERS �,, T branches of a bigtooth maple in Lost Maples State Natural Area north 3 SPEAKING OF TEXAS: ignite. -- `' t, >r !.. of Vanderpool seem to • te. More 50 FUN FORECAST � � ;�� ��' spectacular fall foliage begins on '� page 26. Photo ©Joe Lowery 54 FOR THE ROAD - • a , BACK— Rapport, a bronze by Dr. Joe C. _ i of Caldwell, 56 TEXCETERA graces the Medical - * Smith Sciences Courtyard at TexasA&M 57 WINDOW ON TEXAS - _ r . tl University. Turn to page 14 for other - _ outstanding features of Bryan - College - - r 4 x { , Station. Photo byJ. Griffis Smith ` _ a . _ . _ , L page 22 T win p ee k s • Texas A &M campus —at 5,280 acres the largest unity campus in the United i t _ ri, L i Y- 4,-- 'f.":5";.41-4:7' -i 6.- a Y g e` E Y g • Sta tes —Br versi an and College Station 1 ` , >� r 4r t. - - ) x offer excellent restaurants a winery '� v1; P ' • that wins the nation's and world's high- 1 - j , est awards for certain vintages, and a h I ; t ; ' natural history museum that takes you I { back to a prehistoric afternoon in the . • I' ;k Brazos River Valley. Lovely gingerbread i " . homes and stately mansions recall by 1 ' gone eras, as does a large antique mar l ' ketplace. A year's calendar of more than I 50 events includes splendid concerts and stage performances, a smorgasbord of i festivals, and a knock-your-Santa-socks- off Christmas spectacle. The legacies of Bryan and College Station interweave with the region's rich agricultural history based on corn, King Cotton, and the coming of the Houston and Texas Central Railroad in 1867. The story begins with William Joel Bryan. This enterprising nephew of Stephen F Austin surveyed and mapped the orig- inal town site of Bryan, and in 1860 sold the 640 -acre tract to the H &TC railroad. Rail officials named the new town for him. As construction of rail lines pro - ceeded, Brazos County residents voted to move the county seat from Boonville, the original site, to Bryan. The railroad reached Bryan in 1867. Nine years later, . the State Agricul- tural and Mechanical College of Texas (officially renamed Texas A&M Univer- BY HOWARD PEACOCK AND DIANE MOREY SITTON sity in 1963 by the Texas Legislature) PHOTOGRAPHS BY J. GRIFFIS SMITH opened its doors on a grassy prairie five miles south of Bryan's mushrooming or a moment, you think you've drifted into a fine museum or a posh Fifth Avenue saloons and gambling halls. "College showroom. The collection of rare English cameo glass and other fabulous glass Station," the U.S. Postal Service dubbed pieces, surrounded by paintings by such masters as Frederic Remington, Mary this railway stop. City leaders incorpo- rated the town in 1938. Cassatt, Childe Hassam, and Charles Russell, bathes the entire room with an aura of Today, Bryan and College Station inspired elegance. But you're not at Tiffany's, after all. You're at Texas A &M. share a city limit line and a combined school -year population of around 134,000, The Forsyth Center Galleries in the Two other interesting and significant split about equally between the two (the university's Memorial Student Center, art galleries grace the campus, along total includes about 30,000 Texas A&M where 1,200 pieces of superb art glass with traveling art exhibits and smaller students living off campus; some 13,000 have been gathered, offer visitors one of pockets of sculpture and creative dis- more students live on campus). many esthetic surprises on a campus plays by students, faculty, and alumni. The most popular place to start a tour famed for hard -bitten achievements in . Surprises of other kinds await visitors of the Bryan- College Station area is the engineering, military training, science, to the "sister cities" that embrace the Appelt Aggieland Visitor Center in the and athletics. university. Apart from the sprawling Rudder Tower on the A &M campus. 14 Texas Highways If you appreciate traditions, you've struck folkloric gold at Texas A &M. Few universities cherish traditions in such variety and number. f you're a football fan nostalgic about elude rare art nouveau glass by Tiffany For a change of artistic pace and per the glory days of the bygone South- and striking examples of Peachblow, spective, the M. Benz Gallery of Floral west Conference, you might even Amberina, and other heat - reactive art Art, situated in a park -like atrium in the bump into a legend at the center. John glass, in which gold and uranium parti- Horticulture /Forest Science Building, David Crow, the onlyAggie amongA&M's cles transform the color of the glass in often features exhibits with a light or storied All- Americans to win the Heiman the reheating process. whimsical touch. Trophy, the nation's highest honor for a Besides the extraordinary array of For instance, Shopping Bags From college football player, often takes a break glass, the galleries feature 66 paintings by Around the World, an exhibit so popular from his job as director of development American masters of Western, Impres- it's been repeated, hangs some 1,000 for athletics to chat with tourists. sionist, and primitive art. The latter cate- shopping bags collected mostly by the "Seeing John David and talking with gory includes works by Mary Robertson, late M. "Buddy" Benz, founder of A&M's him," mused a tourist from Sweetwater better known as Grandma Moses. internationally famed School of Floral recently, "is like sitting down to a bowl of More fine art awaits inspection in the Design. Other exhibits have included peach cobbler and ice cream with your J. Wayne Stark University Center Gal- Antique Beaters, 1840 -1900, and Magic favorite uncle or cousin. He's home folks leries, in the northeast corner of the build- Carpets —the latter being prized Ori- to everybody." ing. Fifty thousand visitors a year come to ental rugs, the former being implements H BRYAN-COLLEGE STATION . , A , 4 • s lie It Students Lead 45- minute tours of the see traveling exhibitions, \ y % campus from the Visitor Center. One of covering subjects that o r - # • Alt [ the first stops —and you'll want to come range from anthropo- 3'. ` tip back for a much longer stay—is the logy to photography, as d F efn Forsyth Center Galleries. well as the permanent ® '°' 'We have one of the two largest collec- collection, which features _ _ lions of English cameo glass in the world," paintings by the late, rte' says curator Timothy Novak. The collec- celebrated Texas artist ,.. tion includes works by the great Eng- E.M. "Buck" Schiwetz. lish master George Woodall (1850 - 1925). "Buck painted cotton "The masters of this art form used fields, oil well scenes, Gulf engraving wheels and small steel chisels Coast fishing villages, M1 to carve the intricate scenes and deli- farmhouses, and aban cate profiles into these jars, panels, and doned buildings," says '' 4. other pieces," Timothy says. He notes curator Catherine Has - that the halcyon years of this art form tedt. "A lot of Texans rec / �, 97 " lasted from 1880 to 1911. ognize the moody scenes ' • Other treasures in the galleries in- he painted." ( 5 J _ r) [FACING PAGE] Some 2,500 Texas brands In the Kleberg Animal and Food Sciences ` d <; Center reveal A&M's agricultural origins. The state's oldest public institution of F rr 4 I ��' ; higher learning is the area's No. 1 visitor attraction. . y. f: � [RIGIrr] Though the university's horizons have broadened tremendously since the r days of mandatory military training (which ended in 1965), the Corps of Cadets t- ; r ` kk , i\ remains, rich in t and folklore. ` y k \- E t ,. November 1997 ` ,` • held every April 21 "One day in 1940," Eric says, "several / ... .03.7 wherever in the world Aggies went to Navasota, about 20 miles yfiyh�`�` two or more Aggies can south, to relax a bit. There, the car ` i \ gather fora memorial to struck a scruffy, black- and -white cur, ‘s .r • .4 , �;' honor schoolmates who which they rushed back to the veteri- +' , -\�`�. died in the preceding nary school on campus for treatment. • '°' t . , year. "About 400 Mus- They named her `Home Brew' But the y .,', tern were held last year next morning, when the bugler sounded '.. , � • �* around the world," says `Reveille' to wake up the Corps, she . Eric Lull, a strapping howled long and loud, so they changed • ..t-4 .4i' * ,, senior from Sugar Land her name. h� ` �✓ who serves as command- "Reveille ruled with an iron paw," Eric 0' . i A„ ` ing officer of the Corps continues. She went to classes with the Center Guard. students, and if she barked during a lee " T " At least 18 such tradi- tore, it was a sign that the professor 1 , #.:�, ti on s are dramatized in needed class to rethink his , and the �. exh ibits at the Sam was dismissed. If a lesson finicky steward ° "1- - . __ Houston Sanders Corps in the dining hall suggested that the of Cadets Center, the mutt be taken outside, the steward was F mother lode of Aggie- taken outside instead, often bodily. If ,. '` -. '' "` land lore. Some 2,100 Reveille got in your bed, you found anoth- 1 r- “ - men and women stu- er place to sleep, usually on the floor." PI - _r is ' dents comprise the Full of honors, including the rank of Corps of Cadets, who Brigadier General amon America's have chosen at least two pets, she died in 1944. Today, her name- years of a military life - sake, Reveille VI, continues her proud style while at Texas and pampered tradition. A&M. Those who con - Another heritage -rich attraction, a tinue in the Corps for stairwell embellished with nearly their final two years en- 2,500 registered Texas cattle brands, ter the ROTC program descends the northeast corner of In downtown Bryan, the oldest remaining Carnegie Library build- and graduate as com A &M's Kleberg Animal and Food ing in the state awaits its future as the Carnegie Center of Brazos missioned officers in Sciences Center. Many of the symbols Valley History. the U.S. Armed Forces. hold historic prominence, such as the At his desk for wel- Alamo Regiment's "AR" brand, estab- for whaling dirt and debris out of rugs. coming visitors, Eric is a super source of When a special exhibit isn't onstage, information on Aggie history, cere- - -- - -- --;, the School of Floral Design displays var- monies, customs, and interesting tales. 1 i 3 3 F -1 �. I ious sculptures, paintings, vases, primi- In his spare time, he compiles Aggie sto- I f z., '" 4 ; i tive artworks, and "found objects" se- ries, humorous and enlightening, for a 1; , * � N0 i ; lected from 800 pieces collected by Benz potential book. 'We're figuring on at least .t ' a' e•-, l 1 in a lifetime of world travel. 300 stories worth recording," he says. 1 9 V 2-'I d ` , �_ "We feel that it's important in a build- (An Aggie, for anyone who doesn't know, 7 . '. 'I i f ` = " xl f ing filled with science to also show the was originally the nickname for an agri- L , esthetic side of our work," says director cultural student here.) : k t o ° Jim Johnson. j Thousands of artifacts, photographs, ,0 xi and documents enliven exhibits in the / ; """ ` > -' I f you appreciate traditions, you've center's Great Hall. Special displays in- .:f struck folkloric gold at Texas A &M. elude 140 banners representing Corps __ .. _ _ _ _ _- _- Few universities cherish tradi- units over the years, a spectacular tions in such variety and number. They sword collection, 540 models of historic Toilet of Venus, an 1898 masterpiece of cameo b y range from the story of Reveille, a small, firearms, and class rings dating to the glass bers amm o nn g 1 1 g,22 t r b gp a 00 0 suupeerb e exammplles es o of f art stray dog that became the school's late 19th Century. And there's a life -size glass in the Forsyth Center Galleries in A &M's beloved mascot, to the Aggie Muster, sculpture of Reveille. student center. 16 Texas Highways , Am In Bryan - College Station, lovely gingerbread homes and stately mansions recall bygone eras, as does an antique marketplace. lished in 1812. Others represent families new eatery serving various pastas, he who played significant roles in the Texas stuffed snapper, and other entrees fla- oldest Carnegie Lu in build - in livestock industry. Using the brand reg- P draws vored with gourmet herbs and spices; mg of the sightseers f sti r r to standing Texas istry book, visitors can locate any brand and a dozen other establishments re ornate, ou nm e d Main registered any time in any Texas county, Local folks and famished s u, built uilt An ern 03 with h rf ds don ed y including the year Sam Houston regis- always be found at the Cafe i ro- ture, on saint p t Andrew w funds Carnegie "the by I tered his "SAM" brand and the county nounced ek- SELL), located near the rail- p of public libraries," Cane i the where the late President Lyndon B. road tracks in a rakish, one -story struc- served as a civic and culltural cen err Johnson registered his "LBJ" brand. ture that served as College Station's Closed since 1994, the building awaits a The newest attraction on campus (open - first city hall. Designed 50 years ago by ' major restoration. ing Nov 7), the George Bush Presidential Texas A &M architecture students, the ' "In our long -range plans," says Library and Museum, occupies a 90 -acre building sits four blocks from the train Barbara Moore, Main Street project site off George Bush Drive. A video at station that gave the town its name. In coordinator, "the building will house the the museum's Orientation Theater pre- fact, the opening words of the "Aggie Carnegie Center of Brazos Valley His - views a one - to two -hour self - guided tour. War Hymn " — "Hullaballoo kaneck ka- tory, a collection of Texan "Visitors can walk through a replica of neck, Hullaballoo kaneck kaneck " — a, genealogy, the President's office on Air Force One, echo the sound of the steam whistle and and local history. see a 12- foot -tall, two -ton section of the locomotive wheels clacking over the Main, On South Br Street, just west of Berlin Wall, or look at models of missiles rails right there. The cafe's the Old d pop- livens most livens a rambling ng y t Marketplace ructure that o ld- used during Operation Desert Storm," std - rm, ular items are barbecued chicken pizza, timers remember as Central Texas says curator Patricia Burchfield. A a fantastic strawberry tart, restored TBM Avenger fighter- bomber, and fresh -baked bread. like the one that carried President Bush "To make our breads and during World War II, hangs from a ceiling. pastries," owner Don Ariz In addition, 38 million pages of offi- says, "the bakers arrive cial and personal papers, more than one every morning at 2 a.m. and million audiovisual records, and 60,000 start from scratch with fresh artifacts document Bush's presidency ingredients. We make special C i and vice presidency, as well as his public breads for our sandwiches, a service in the United Nations, China, different bread for each day , 1 , � j the Central Intelligence "" ' ' >M ,` lence g Agency an d of the week." Congress. The facility is the tenth presi- Cafe Eccell is one of 118 , _ ► , � _ k dential library administered by the historic points of interest in , „,: 1 - Jill National Archives. Bryan, College ;; 1 e Station and 1 Rambling around the big campus and throughout Brazos County 1 i; BRAZOS 1 12AB TA ' . s 1 eeing the sights you can work u an li by the Brazos Heri- - AN TIQUES • a ppetite. Tourists take their ! Az-9- I t &COLLECTS �o.. 1 ,( - 1 • fli . . . r pick of tage Society (see When... - ,a;� restaurants in Bryan and College Sta- Where...How for brochure ”" lion that offer a tempting spap of dishes. sources). Many of the at- .. • J_ ' sa • Ask around, and you'll likely hear about tractions cluster in down- ' .� 1 it — 11 , I l 0 �^ a a :- T - Tom's Barbecue, where waiters lug a town Bryan. _ :i 4 ' 1 ' \ ^- ; 4 y : • Vi slab of meat, plus sauce and trimmings, a ' ' ,r1 to your table, and let the whole thing down easy onto a sheet of butcher paper; Brazos Trader in downtown Bryan is _ , � 11.11.".:.10.----i,14, .' ' . ' w ` Los Nortenos Mexican Cafe, long a one of many places where lovers of V r' antiques and collectibles can shop ` ' fix; Royers , . �� _ :� s �� favorite for a Tex -Mex College Station Cafe (same family as ttl they drop. Nearby, the Old Bryan �_ < �t ` . `'` . y Marketplace also draws devotees of the well cafe in Round Top), .4 P) a delightful debris. / November 1997 it } i t i> ;, - X ` ._ r u� `� tire �� iz.." i� R;1�. i � , c x 4 � _ . _ 0 S — 9 t a _,, _ - ►► {i ` �•sw =a ds ". r . .- -- _„,_,..,,....„,„--...W..-.7,...- '-- . s w - - Y i � S � ' � -' '~• ''-`�' P : � 6 - '�.SS' Ty " ms s . a•� �� •+.�Y k ,y „ f, T r .fc y a J S- -w ` 1 „ ~ +r te - _- �_.,, c � a+5. r a_ f4:73- .. . zz . ' . y3 . 4 .+� i t r 3. W'r , . " -„a cry _ _'c�°' .. : - "�' -.. ,t ;, -..W .... ' -. fi .. z . ' a - ,sg ��� "°' s ue.. ' �s' ' =z- _ ris�s`�f°r^ = ^ _ _ -` ; . -:: ;:.:Z Y y ps.: _ [ABOVE] Heaps of wood await the annual Aggie bonfire, which heats up some 60,000 A &M EE fans before the big fall football game against the University of Texas. i__ (RIGHT] Cadets head to class.A 121 - year -old tradition, the Corps today boasts some 2,100 f �i ' ' - � , members, nine percent of whom are women. g o. t Hardware, a building first opened as a The Eastside Historic Dis- f 2 - ~' livery stable in 1908. Today, lovers of trict, marked on the Brazos '' ; ~ , > I 1 antiques br the eclectic mix of Heritage Society's self-guided %. old and new treasures might discover an tour map, is peppered with ,.. . ° < 1880s Belgian cobbler's bench, or a lamp quaint homes built by mer " _ n- fashioned from a fisherman's tackle box chants, developers, and town °- F= ;t-- = - :: " -- x once owned by a Texas Hill Country leaders between the 1880s and angler. They number among hundreds the mid- 1930s. Many of the dwellings and Indian paintbrushes in lush bloom. of "finds" by owner Kay Conlee, a fourth- are listed in the National Register of Native Americans moving about, and generation Bryan resident and self- Historic Places. bison rolling in the dust for relief from described "junker." Folks fascinated by prehistoric vistas, biting flies and mosquitoes. Scattered Panabella's Grand Cafe, one of five extinct monsters, and very early Texans throughout the scene, more than 50 businesses sharing the 22,000- square- find the Brazos Valley Museum of species of prehistoric creatures— saber- foot building, lures downtown shoppers Natural History a "must" for their itin- toothed tigers, mastodons, mammoths, with the aromas of homemade bread eraries. Here, about five miles east of camels, horses, dire wolves, and bears- and grilled pork steak doused with rasp- the Historic District, a sweeping, 40 -by- frolic, watch, or doze. berry- and - red -grape relish. , 11 -foot pastoral mural dominates the "Down to the smallest detail, it's as main exhibit room, revealing a scientifically accurate as you can get," sunny springtime afternoon says Thomas Lynch, executive director ,_ f 12,500 years ago in the Brazos of the museum. Five scientists on the 4 . . River Valley. The spot chosen Texas A &M faculty researched the - for depiction by artist Emma mural's extensive zoological, botanic ti, ilr Stark and her scientific advi- and geological elements. I .. sors is a nearby area crossed to- ir , , . = day by a stretch of Texas 21, the or outdoor play and relaxation, 60 famed El Camino Real Kin 's city X - .: (" g ty parks covering more than 2,400 \� ---, �j - Highway") of Spain -ruled Tex- acres in Bryan and College Station _.At E . r as Stark catches bluebonnets entice families and visitors who want to V e i t picnic, swim, hike, or play golf and ten- a. 1 , . _ ; n ; ' - Save room for a strawberry tart and rus. Lake Bryan Park, a 275 acre i:'ay some fancy coffee at Cafe Eccell, which ground on Bryan's northwest fringes, occupies a historic building that once also attracts boaters, swimmers, jet -ski housed College Station's city hall. enthusiasts, and campers. 18 Texas High ways 1 GRAPE EXPECTATIONS T he No. 2 tourist attraction by Paul's grandfather in Sicily. , �i " � 0 �'. ' .. Juan Martinez and Jeff a. 4 . •. ' s " Van Fleet examine a of the Brazos River Val Rolled on the tongue and ley " _" "`u�"' s44 ' couple of Messina Hof's after Texas A&M , against the cheeks, then allowed _ • • • ;' �` ey ( ) again ' ` , ' ttr . ` • floe wines. The winery's Messina Hof Wine Cellars of Bry- inward, Papa Paolo surrenders a L.. • • . • - 1 .. • grape creations have an claims No.1 ranking among deep flavor tinged with hints of • ti r „ • ' . , ,\ i won some 377 awards. • Texas' 25 wineries for winning fruit, perhaps raspberry or cher- -r „ . - ) , " a ry ti wards. To date Messina Hof s . Little wonder that it has won i � l y i/ , t asked Paul and � - x premium varietal wines, often pit 49 major awards and medals, .- '', ..: —� i i ' / I Merrill if they could e t ed against the world's most fa- including six Gold Medals. The i .`I 1 _. _ help harvest that mous, have won no fewer than 377 latest of the Golds came in 1996 - -' - - 4� - t 4t4 ‘ 'ea's crop. After - honors in international, national, at the San Francisco Fair Inter- �� }9 j wards, they told their regional, and state competitions. national Wine Competition, one friends, who joined the Husband - and -wife team Paul of the industry's most presti- following year's pick - and Merrill Bonarrigo estab- gious world competitions. tions for the gathering of grapes. ers, and then told their friends fished Messina Hof in 1977 and Other huge winners from the Some pick for a day, others for a about it, who picked and told marketed their first wines, a to- Messina Hof barrels include a few days, others for a week or so. their friends. By word of mouth tal of 1,300 gallons, in 1983. Last Private Reserve Cabernet Sau- The harvest lasts from mid July over the years, The Pickers year, production rose to 112,500 vignon and a Texas Late Harvest to late August. Club has flourished to its I gallons, making this the fastest- Johannesburg Riesling named As a souvenir of the experi- present numbers and esprit. growing winery in Texas. Paul "Angel," which in 1994 won a ence, some of the pickers stomp Visitors arriving for a tour represents the sixth generation rare Double Gold Award, the a few bunches of grapes bare- of the vineyards and buildings of a family tradition in wine- highest award a wine can receive. footed and imprint their soles often recognize the Guest making that began some 200 Grapes grown on the winery's on T- shirts to take home. On House as a grand turn- of -the- years ago in the town of Messina, 40 acres at Bryan are picked by weekends during the harvest, century estate known originally Sicily. The "Hof" in the winery's hand —the hands of volunteers. the volunteers join crowds of as the Howell House. It was the name comes from Merrill's (Messina Hof also grows grapes regular folks for Messina Hof's first of many elegant mansions family roots in Hof, Germany. on about 450 acres at other gourmet feasts, seminars on built in the Brazos River Valley. "We consider wine a food points in Texas.) The volunteers wine and food pairings, and Today, the winery's public in our family, always to be used arrive at the winery at harvest concerts at sunset. hospitality room exudes the in moderation," Paul says. time from all parts of the coun- Merrill says that The Pickers comfort and warmth of a large Of the 24 varieties of wines tty, year after year, to experi- Club grew from a request made family living room. produced at Messina Hof, ence the harvest and revel in a in 1984 by 14 students at Texas "Messina Hof is not just our Paul admits that the one he reunion of old and new friends. A&M. Accustomed to helping business," Paul says. "Ifs an is "emotionally tied to" is the Calling themselves The Pickers harvest grapes for wineries in expression of our family tradition port named Papa Paolo. The Club, numbering about 1,400 in their hometowns in France, and a way of life —the good life." recipe was originally created all, they make annual reserva- Italy, and Germany, the students —Howard Peacock Travelers who prefer bigger waters hillside seating for 6,000 people at various and Santa landing in an airplane. On and facilities can head southwest about live performances, plus jogging trails, weekends during the season, a story - 35 miles to Lake Somerville State Park's playgrounds, picnicking beside a pond, book Victorian village in the park throbs 5,000 -plus acres for camping, hiking, and and other amenities within its 19 acres. with hayrides, snow scenes, and live watersports. The lake itself covers 11,460 If you visit Bryan and College Station music — interspersed with pauses for acres, bordered by 85 miles of shoreline. during the Christmas season, you're in hot chocolate and cookies —all free. The U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, with for a terrific three weeks of "Holiday on But the family fun doesn't stop with headquarters off Texas 36 on the north the Brazos." "Christmas in the Park," a the holidays. Altogether, the "sister end of the dam, also provides numerous Dickensian celebration in College Sta- cities" host 57 annual events. In Febru- camping and recreational facilities, plus tion's Central Park, presents one of the ary, visitors and local folks gather at the commercial marinas. state's most spectacular lighting shows, Brazos Center in Bryan to shop at the Wolf Pen Creek Park in College Sta- blazing away with more than 150,000 Continental Antique Show. An old -fash- tion features an open amphitheater with lights arranged as snowflakes, elves, ioned July 4th celebration, complete November 1997 19 WHEN•••WHERE•••HOW Bryan- College Station ryan- College Station, in E5 Brazos County, lies 165 England and Songs Without Words: other items. Current shows: accessible. Write to Box 10410, The Art of the Paperweight, Rick Warps and Wefts Weavings by the College Station 77842; 260-9552. miles south of Dallas /Fort Ayotte. Tours for 5 or more by appt. Brazos Spinners and Weavers Web site: / /csdLtamu.edu/bushlib. Worth, 90 miles northwest of Hours: Mon Fri 9-8, Sat Sun noon- Guild (through Nov 14) and Old Historic and current cattle Houston, and 90 miles northeast 6. Call for hours during holidays World Santos by Vivian Stroud brands decorate the northeast of Austin, at the convergence of and summer sessions. Admission: (through Dec. 31). stairwell at the HIeberg Animal US 190 and Texas highways 6, 21, Free. Wheelchair accessi ®>¢uE cuarincs and Food Sciences Center. and 30. Write to the Bryan-College ble. Write to Box J 1, ° 9 5 a"" "" Reach the center by entering the Colle e Station 77844; se,e Station Convention and Visitor g ,• ` campus on Wellborn Rd (FM 2154) Bureau, 715 University Dr. East, 845-9251. r c eek so �, off George Bush Dr. (FM 2347). College Station 77840 -1804; J. Wayne Stark � ® Hours: Mon-Fri 8-6. Admission: 800/777-8292. the Bryan College University Center To Caldw= BRYAN To H""tsv1 e Free. Not wheelchair accessible. AK " Station area code is 409. Aeries feature travel- ® " e Write to the Dept. of Animal Sci- I. sell Creek enee, Texas A&M Univ., College Texas A&M University ing exhibitions and the ,f Carters Texas A&M 's front entrance is permanent collection � Creek Station 77843 - 2471; 845 -1542. at East Gate on Texas Ave. Visitor of E.M. "Buck" Schiwetz To... rs cam co College Station Attractions parking is available in the Univer paintings. Current works 2818 Cafe Eccell,101 Church St., sity Center Parking Garage (enter on display include: Ikebana illt coLLece C ontainers from the Benz ST ATION College Station 77840. Hours: , South Gate off George Bush Dr.) and the Northside Parking Garage Co To us 290 and Houston Mon Fri 11-10, Sat-Sun 8-2. Wheel Collection (through Dec. chair accessible Call 846 -7908. (enter North Gate off University 20) and Modernist Prints Dr.). Fee: 75C per hour. Free park- 1900-1955 (through Dec. 18). Interpretive trails wind ing available at the Bush Presi- Tours for 5 or more by appt. bags to the popular collection through wooded terrain at Andy dential Library. Hours: Tue -Fri 9 -8, Sat -Sun Shopping Bags From Around the Anderson Arboretum, 1900 noon -6. Closed on university hol- World, mail bags that show the Anderson St. (adjacent to Texas 6, The Appelt Visitor store or place of origin in their' APPctt idays. Admission: Free. Wheel- Bee Creek, and Bee Creek Park). Center in Rudder Tower offers chair accessible. Write to Box J -3, design, along with anecdotes Not wheelchair accessible. Obtain campus tours that cover A&M College Station 77844; 845 6081. about the bag, to The M. Benz trail maps at the Bryan-College traditions and history each hour Gallery of Floral Art, James I Station C&VB (see above) or Mon Fri from 9 4. For group or The Sam Houston Sanders Johnson, Director, Dept. of College Station Parks and Recre special tours, call ahead. Tours, Corps of Cadets Center houses Horticulture, Texas A&M Univ., ation Dept. (see "Other Parks," campus maps, and other handouts the Sanders /Metzger Gun Col- College Station 77843. Hours: facing page). are free. Hours: Mon-Fri 8 -5, Sat lection and memorabilia reflect- Mon Fri 8-5. Tours by appt. 10 4, Sun 1 4. Wheelchair accessi ing the history and traditions of Admission: Free. Wheelchair Wolf Pen Creek Park, 1015 ble. Write to Rudder Tower, Col- the Corps. Hours: Mon -Fri 8 -5, accessible. Call 845-1699. Colgate, features an amphitheater lege Station 77843- 1265; 845 -5851. with occasional weekend special with a full schedule of concerts, events. Admission: Free. Wheel- The �o Bush Presiden plays, and festivals; a 2-acre pond The MSC Forsyth Center tial library and Museum opens surrounded b a walkin ogging University, chair Write to ds No v 7. Admission free on opening y Galleries house the Runyon A&M Universi Corps Corps of f Ca Cadets loop; a picnic area; and a playground. Collection of 19th- Century art day. Hours: Mon -Sat 9: Sun 30 -5, Contact College Station parks Center, College Station 77843 g Par glass and American paintings. noon -5. Closed Thanksgiving, 1400; 862 -2862. (see "Other Parks," facing page). Special exhibits through Dec. 14 Christmas, and New Year's days. include British Glass: From the The M. Benz Gallery of Floral Admission: $3, $2.50 age 62 and Driving tour of historic Broadfield House Glass Museum Art contains whimsical exhibits older and students with ID, free homes. See A Guide to Historic and Himley Hall, Stourbridge, along with vases, floral art, and age 16 and younger. Wheelchair Brazos County (next column). J ;' ..... ) \--, . �� 1 �`` _ with fireworks, food, games, and enter - importance occurs every two years whet: ,.. - ;`- ' '•� " _, 4 n . ,, tainment, attracts summer tourists. the Texas A &M and University of Tex - V:17:1".'4'::4'57.1-,-;-::',.41,4,,,,., t t , �` `k :11 f 1 Later in July, cowboys and cowpokes- as football teams collide at Kyle Field, ' ,, ` 1, �, i� r � ,� at -heart share the excitement of roping on the A &M campus, for 60 official min- and riding at a PRCA rodeo. utes of hostile play. On alternate years, .. i _ The area's event of volcanic power and they switch the site of battle to Austin. y ' � The rivalry between the Lone StP,r � , .A 1 � }' r ". State's two giant universities reach: s 4 _ -. ,u ` -- Held every October in Bryan, FestiFall features x 'te ° ,.�'' live music, food booths, and fun - lovers, like back to 1894. This year the 104th clash . � \� e ,r• _ _ '�`� jugglers Jerry Peterson and Matt Vance. takes place on Friday, November 28, 20 Texas Highways 1 I 1 1 For information about Texas includes a gourmet deli and sells Tracey Youngblood, A&M University's historic build - wines and wine accessories. Hours: Raymond Bradley, and a h � i ings, write to the Archives Dept., Mon Fri 9-5:30, Sat 10-5, Sun noon Bob Holmes cast lines ,lam : T ,' Sterling C. Evans Library, Texas 4. The Trattoria restaurant fea- at Lake Bryan Park r .'!• A &M Univ., College Station 77843- tures Italian and German cuisine. (409/361- 3781). i:-. A 4 .' 5000; 845 -1815. Hours: Wed -Sun 11 -2:30; evenings The traditional-night-before- (by reservation) Thu -Sat 4 -10. 77840 764 3773. $ "'- o � • LIT—game bonfire and Y ell '—' T ` .;; The • Vintner's Loft Bed and Web site: www.ci.r pr takes place at nightfall Breakfast occupies the second college - station.tx. - - - _ . on Thanksgiving Day !n g y (Nov 27, floor (one single room) above us /paid /. 1997), at the intersection of the Guest Center. Continental The 26th Annual Bryan Events University and Texas avenues. breakfast included. Rates: Sun - Breakfast Lions Club Rodeo Thu $75 /night, Fri-Sat $85 /night Christmas in the Park, held kicks off each evening July 16 -18, Bryan Attractions in College Station's Central Park, ► ($100 /night during special events). 1998, at 8 p.m. at the Brazos Old Bryan Marketplace, 202 takes its mood and character Not wheelchair accessible. Up- County Arena on Tabor Rd., Bryan. S. Bryan St, features antiques, from Charles Dickens' Christmas coming events at the winery: Admission: $7 age 14 and older, reproductions, and collectibles. Carol. Opening ceremony Nov Wine Hours: Mon -Sat 10 -6. Write to 202 ne Premier and Designer m. An extravaganza of d 6 13, free age 5 and young - Events Cooking School, Nov 25, 6:30 22, p er. Wheelchair accessible. Call S. Bryan, Bryan 77803; 779 -3245. lights, Nov 25-Jan. 1, 6:30 p.m.- No Papa el Celebration, Dec. 6 822 -4428. 4) Don't miss Panabella's Grand 11 p.m. Open house at Victorian and 13 -20; Mulled Wine Week- Cafe, in a quaint corner of the mar- Village with music and various Theatrical Entertainment end, Dec. 6 -7. Write to 4545 Old ketplace. Hours: Mon -Sat 11 -2:30. holiday activities, Dec. 4 -6, 11 -13, Entertainment of all kinds is 44' Reliance Rd., Bryan 77808 -8995; Dinner, by reservation only, Sat and 18 -20, 6:30 p.m. -9:30 p.m. offered throughout the year in the 7 778 9463 (778 -WINE). 6 p.m. -9 p.m. Wheelchair acces- Admission: Free. Wheelchair 2,500 -seat Rudder Auditorium in sible. Call 779-2558. Other Parks accessible. Contact the C &VB. A &M's Memorial Student Center. The Brazos Valley Museum of Bryan hosts the area's first Holiday on the Brazos features For dates and ticket information, handicap - access exercise course: call 845 -1661. Natural History depicts prehistor- concerts, theater, fine arts, a of ts, a `wheel course" in Sam Rayburn displays, and other family is life in the Brazos Valley. Hours: light displays y Area Attractions Academic year, Tue- Sat_10 -5; sum- Park outfitted with pull up rings, m events Dec. 1-21. Contact the C&VB. Lake Somerville, about 35 r mer, Mon Sat 8-5. Admission: Free; parallel bars, and other special € 'de'. equipment. The park also includes The Continental Antique Show, miles southwest of town, offers donations accepted. Wheelchair campsites, marinas, and park t accessible. Write to 3232 Briarcrest a short running track for the visu- Brazos Center, 3232 Briarcrest Dr., . ally impaired For nature - lovers Bryan, takes place Feb. 6- 8,1998. areas. Obtain information from ;; Dr., Bryan 77802; 776 -2195. U.S. Army Corps of Engineers and hikers, College Station's Lick Hours: Fri noon -8, Sat 11 -7, Sun A Guide to Historic Brazos Creek Park offers 515 acres of noon 5. Admission: $3. Wheelchair headquarters (409/596 -1622) on ` County, available at the C&VB, natural terrain inhabited by accessible. Call 512/756 -9731. the north end of the dam off Texas contains historic points of inter- wildlife and native plants. 36. lake Somerville State Park est on self guided tours through AJuly 4th Celebration lights has facilities for ca mping boating Bryan and Brazos County. For maps and information on up Olsen Feld, at Texas A&M (cor- and picnicking on the lakes nd *. # Bryan parks, write to Bryan PARD, ner of Wellborn Rd. and George and southwest shores. Contact s Messina Hof Wine Cellars 201 E. 29th St., Bryan 77803; 361- Bush Dr.) on Sat., July 4, 1998, be- the C &VB (see facing page),/. , offers free tours daily (call for 3656. For maps and information ginning at 5:30 p.m. Fireworks spon- call the park's Birch Creek Unit hours) of the vineyard and winery on College Station parks, write sored by College Station Noon Lions on the north shore at 535 -7763, (reservations required for groups to College Station PARD, 1000 Club. Admission: Free. Wheelchair or the Nails Creek Unit on the of 10 or more). The Guest Center Krenek Tap Rd., College Station accessible. Call 260 -9898. southwest shore at 289 -2392. ( - i before more than 70,000 boisterous par- enthusiasts will also heat up their hopes towns encourage you to come see for tisans in the stands, plus millions more and lungs for victory. Citizens of Bryan yourself what makes them so inviting.* via TV and radio. At the Aggies' yell prac- and College Station turn out for these HOWARD PEACOCK of Woodville nudged tice the preceding evening (Thanksgiv- two festivities in great numbers to sup- nostalgic nerves with his story on San ing Day), the traditional bonfire, a mon- port the maroon - and - white. Antonio's Brackenridge Park in June. Look ster monument of dead trees and debris, With justifiable pride in their history, for DIANE MOREY SITTON's story on will flame skyward, illuminating much of lovely parks, numerous attractions, and the Stephen F. Austin State University the Brazos River Valley from the inter- colossal state university—not Arboretum in an upcoming issue. y ty — not to men Staff photographer GRIEF SMITH provided section of University and Texas avenues, ti on consistently high ratings on "Liv- photos for the stories on MUFON, Zilker where some 60,000 or more Aggie able American Cities" lists —these twin Park, and chili in the August issue. November 1997 21