Loading...
HomeMy WebLinkAboutEntering and repairing a flooded house and furnishings Mr. W. S. Allen Agricultural Engineer CHECKING ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT THAT HAS BEEN FLOODED Before entering a dwelling or building that has been flooded, check to make sure there are no broken power lines in the immediate area. If any have fallen or may be touching the metal parts of the building such as the roof or gutters, avoid them, do not touch, and contact your power supplier to advise them of the situation. If the ground or the floors are still damp, approach flooded or wet equipment with caution. Disconnect appliances and equipment before checking them. Avoid working on motors until they have been disconnected. Motors that have been flooded or wet should be dried and wiped as clean as possible before they are reconnected and used. If possible, allow them to stand a day or two to make sure that all switches or junction boxes have "dripped" dry. The presence of water inside the motor may cause it to "short" and burn out, requiring an expensive rewinding job or total replacement. After the equipment has been dried and allowed to stand long enough so it is completely free of moisture, then it may be checked by connecting with the power source. Caution should be taken when reconnecting an appliance or motor that has been wet. If it blows a fuse or trips the circuit breaker, then you assume that the trouble is serious and the equipment should be disconnected immediately. A competant service man should be called for further work on the motor or appliance. Laura J. Russell Area Housing and Home Furnishings Specialist PRECAUTIONS FOR ENTERING A FLOODED HOUSE When first entering a house which has been flooded, let the house air a few minutes to remove foul odors and escaping gas. Do not smoke or use open flame until you are sure it is safe to do so. Bear in mind that there may be holes in the floors, loose boards and nails sticking up. Use a flash light after dark to avoid igniting escaped gas. Do not turn on electrical systems which may have become short circuited until after they are checked. Turn off gas at the meter or tank. All doors or windows that have become submerged will be swollen tight. When entrance must be made by force because of swollen doors, accumulated mud or bulged doors, enter by a window or other openings and then remove the pins in the door hinges by lifting them with screw drivers or hammers. Be sure the door is unlocked and then push it from the outside, trying not to damage it. Look for loose plaster ready to fall from the ceiling and break it down with a stick before moving around in the building. Wet plaster is heavy and it is dangerous if loose. Watch for more loose plaster as the house dries. Laura Russell Area Housing and Home Furnishings Specialist SHOULD YOU RECONDITION OR REMODEL THAT DAMAGED HOUSE? After temporary repairs have been made so you can live in your flooded house, take time to consider all possibilities before making final repairs. If a big and expensive job of reconditioning is going to be necessary it may be wise to do major remodeling to make the house more livable and better fitted to the family's immediate and future needs. You may be collecting insurance which will provide part of the necessary money. Loans may be available also. Take time to be sure you are making the wisest decision possible under the circumstances. Mr. W. S. Allen Agricultural Engineer PLANS AVAILABLE FOR RECONSTRUCTING HOLIES OR FARM BUILDINGS Repairs, remodeling, and new construction will be necessary to replace many homes and farm buildings that are damaged from a hurricane or similar disaster. The county Extension agent office has a plan catalog listing the many plans that are available to help you in making these repairs and for planning new construction. Careful thought should be given to the replacement and repair of these buildings in order that they may be made fit into present day farming enterprises. Consideration should be given to the necessary flexibility and possible future needs. In selecting plans, the entire farming operation and the probable addition of other buildings at a later date should be carefully considered. Over 500 different plans including house plans, barn plans, machinery sheds and other buildings are available from your county agent. He will be glad to advise you on the selection of available plans that will fit into your overall farm plan needs. These plans are available free of charge. See your county Extension agent today for plans and bulletins that you may need in your rebuilding program. Laura J. Russell Area Housing and Home Furnishings Specialist DRYING, CLEANING AND REPAIRING THE FLOODED HOUSE To reclaim a flooded house and its furnishings and prevent further damage, remove moisture as quickly as possible. Open all doors and windows to dry out the house. If windows are swelled so that they cannot be raised, take off the small strip that holds in the lower sash. Remove any accumulation of mud or dirt. Scrub floors and wood work to remove silt using a wire brush and plenty of water. Dry these completely before any attempt at repair is made. Start the heating plant as soon as it is in condition to operate. Remember that too much heat can aggravate shrinkage and cause deformation of wet woods. Open windows and doors enough to give good ventilation. After the house is dried it may be possible to correct buckled flooring by face nailing. Planing, sanding and refinishing may be the only reconditioning needed. Some old floors may serve as a base for new floors. Some may be covered with one of the newer floorings including linoleum, asphalt, rubber or vinyl. If floors are badly buckled, it may be necessary to take up and rcs--iay t, floor. Be sure to allow plenty of time for drying before reconditioning is attempted. For further information ask your county Extension offices for a copy of "First Aid for Flooded Homes and Farms." Laura J. Russell Area Housing and Home Furnishings Specialist RECLALviING WALLS OF FLOODED HOMES All walls should be thoroughly dried before refinishing is attempted, plastered walls often can be cleaned and repainted. If plaster has cracked but not loosened use spackling compound to mend cracks. Thoroughly dry and repaint. Spackling compound is available at paint stores and lumber yards. Sheet rock which has become wet will usually have to be discarded. Ply wood is made of three or more layers of wood bonded together by glue. After being wet for some time they likely will separate, blister, and become generally unsightly. After thoroughly drying it may be possible to smooth these out by sanding, face nailing and painting or papering. hasonite walls, either pre — finished or unfinished will usually be in good condition and after cleaning it can be repainted. If the old finish is showing signs of chipping it would be wise to remove the chipped finish. Paint companies have a preparation which will cause paint to adhere to masonite or to the finish which has not chipped. Solid wood walls usually will be satisfactory after being face nailed, sanded and then painted or papered. Any wall or wood work to which wax or furniture polish has been applied should be wiped with amonia water before it is repainted. To prevent mildew in walls which have been soaked, wipe with one part household cholorine bleach to six parts of water. Allow to dry 24. hours before paint is applied. Elsie P. Short Home Management Specialist PREVENT LILDEW Aiildew is a thin, whitish growth on many kinds of surfaces by molds. Though always present in the air, molds that cause mildew need moisture and certain temperatures in order to grow. Mildew is especially difficult to control following floods or especially warm muggy weather. The molds causing mildew flourish are wherever it is damp, warm, poorly aired, poorly lighted - -in cellars, in clothes closets, on draperies and rugs, on shower curtains, on damp clothes prepared for ironing. You may help to prevent mildew by keeping things clean. Keep closets, dresser drawers, and any place where mildew is likely to grow, as clean as possible. Soil on articles can supply sufficient food for mildew to start growing when moisture and temperature are right. Greasy films, such as those that form on kitchen walls, also contain many nutrients for mildew organisms. host man -made fibers such as acetate, acrylic, polyester, and nylon are resistant to mildew. Thorough cleaning of all soiled fabrics regardless of the kind of fiber, may help prevent them from mildewing. Get rid of dampness. •Try to control causes of dampness. Make sure there is good drainage around the house. In some places it is necessary to spread a layer of moisture- barrier material over the soil under the building such as heavy roofing paper or polyethylene plastic film. If there is a clothes dryer, have it vented to the outside. Dry the air. Close the windows and doors and turn on the air conditioner. Cool air holds less moisture than warm air. If necessary, get rid of the dampness by heating the house for a short time. Then open the house and let the moisture -laden air out. An exhaust fan may be used for forcing the moist air out. -2- An electric light may be burned continuously in a closet to dry the air. Be sure to place the light bulb at a sufficient distance from clothing to avoid the danger of fire. To keep moisture out of clothing and household fabrics and make them less susceptible to mold growth, they may be treated with wax- emulsion or silicone water - repellent sprays. Use the spray on draperies, upholstered furniture, mattresses, luggage, shoes, jackets and other outer garments. Fungicide products that can be sprayed on fabrics to give them mildew protection are available in the low pressure aerosol containers. Some of these fungicide sprays contain a wax or a silicone resin which makes the fabric repellent to water and mildew. Some of these sprays also contain an insecticide that makes the sprayed fabric resistant to moths. For mildew protection, wet the surface of the fabric thoroughly with the spray. Be sure to follow the directions on the container. Be sure all stored clothing or textiles are cleaned and free from starch when they are stored. Unless the starch has a mildew inhibitor, the molds feed on the starch. Silica gel, activated alumina, or calcium chloride are chemicals which may be used to absorb moisture from the air. They may be bought in department stores, drugstores or building- supply dealers. Silica gel and activated alumina are not harmful to fabrics. The porous granules remain dry feeling even when saturated. To use, hang cloth bags of the chemical in clothing closets. Or place an open container of it in the closet. Keep closet door closed so that moisture from outside air will not get in. Dry granules may be scattered through layers of clothing and other articles that are stored in tightly closed chests or trunks. -3- Both silica gel and alumina can be used over and over, if dried between times. To dry, simply place moist granules in a vented oven at 300 degrees for several hours. Then put it in an air -tight box and cool before re- using. Silica gel specially treated with a color indicator is pink when full of moisture, blue when dry. Calcium chloride also absorbs moisture from the air and can be dried out in the oven. Some volatile chemicals, the vapors of which inhibit mold growth, may be used to protect fabrics during storage. Examples of these are: paradichlorobengene crystals and paraformaldehyde powder. Both are volatile and will need to be replenished as soon as the vapors leak out. These may be harmful to plastics, so remove any plastic buttons or ornaments before storing clothes. Low - pressure sprays containing mildew inhibiting chemicals also help control molds and mildew in a closed area. To be effective, the spray must wet the interior surface of the closet or storage container. Spray into the cracks and crevices. It will be necessary to respray often. Keep everything clean, dry, a circulation of air and plenty of light will also help to prevent the growth of mildew. It is much better to prevent mildew than to get rid of it once it gets hold. Elsie P. Short Home Management Specialist TO REMOVE MILDEW Mildew spots should be removed as soon as they are discovered. Dontt give the mold growth a chance to weaken or rot the material. Brush off any surface growth outdoors to prevent scattering the mildew spores in the house. Sun and air fabrics thoroughly. If any mildew spots remain, wash things which are washable in soap and water at once. The sooner, the better. Rinse well and dry as quickly as possible. If any stain remains, bleach with lemon juice, salt and sunshine, sodium perborate bleach, or a diluted solution of chlorine bleach. Do not use chlorine bleaches on wool, silk or some fabrics treated with special finishes. For upholstered articles, mattresses and rugs remove loose mold from the articles by brushing with a broom or stiff brush. If possible, do this out -of -doors to prevent scattering mildew spores in the house. Run a vacuum cleaner attachment over the surface of the article to draw out all the mold possible. Remember to clean out the vacuum cleaner immediately. Empty the bag outside the house to prevent scattering the spores. If the vacuum bag is a disposable one, destroy it at once. Dry the articles as quickly as possible - -use an electric heater and a fan to carry away moist air. Sun and air the article to stop the mold growth. If the mildew still remains, sponge with a thick pail of soap suds and wipe clean with a damp cloth or sponge with one cup rubbing alcohol in one cup water and dry thoroughly. Rugs and carpets may be sponged with thick suds or a rug shampoo. If rug shampoo equipment is owned or can be rented, apply the shampoo and remove with the shampooer; otherwise, remove the suds with a cloth dampened in clear water. Dry in the sun if possible. -- 2 Use a low - pressure spray containing a fungicide to kill any remaining mildew spores. If molds have grown into the inner part of an article, send it to a reliable disinfecting and fumigating service. To remove mildew from leather goods, wipe with a cloth wrung out of one cup denatured or rubbing alcohol, diluted with one cup water. Dry in a current of air. If mildew remains, wash with a thick suds of saddle soap or a soap containing a germicide or fungicide. Wipe with a damp cloth and dry. Polish leather shoes and luggage with a good wax dressing. For wooden surfaces, scrub with a mild alkali, such as washing soda or a disinfectant. Rinse well with clear water and allow the wood to dry thoroughly. Then apply a mildew- resistant paint. Dry papered and plastered walls slowly to prevent cracking. If paper and walls can be washed, pat with a cloth wrung out of thick soap suds then rinse with clear water. Finally, pat with a soft dry cloth. It is easier to prevent mildew than to remove it once it gets a start. For more information ask your county Extension agents for a copy of Home and Garden Bulletin, Number 68, U.S. Department of Agriculture. Laura J. Russell Area Housing and Home Furnishings Specialist PREVENTION AND REMOVAL OF MILDEW STAINS FROM WALLS To prevent mildew in walls which have been water soaked, wipe with one part household chlorine bleach to six parts of water. Allow to dry 24 hours before paint is applied. I. BEFORE PAINTING A MILDEWED WALL (INTERIOR OR EXTERIOR) -Get rid of any damp soil and /or heavy vegetation which may be keeping walls damp and encouraging mildew. -Scrub mildewed surface with this solution, then rinse with clean water. Let surface become completely dry before applying the paint: Solution - 5 gallons of water, 3 ounces of trisodium phosphate cleanser, 4 pint of household ammonia. -To retard growth mildew, you may choose one of the following: 1. Buy and use a manufactured mildew retardant from your local paint store. 2. Buy a mildew- resistant paint (expecially for exteriors) - Remember mildew is a fungus which lives on vegetable matter such as oil in paints. It must be killed or it will eat through any number of coats of paint, and may even grow worse because of new oil paints. II. MILDEW CONTROL - Mildew control comes in the form of liquid, crystals, and paint additives. These materials work effectively in the Gulf Coast areas - Suggested distributors for these controls in the Gulf Coast areas are: Texas Marine and Industrial Supply Company 8106 Harrisburg Blvd. P. 0. Box 5218 Houston 6, Texas - 2 - Texas Marine and Industrial Supply Company 1 828 Strand Galveston, Texas San Antonio Machine and Supply Company Box 971 Corpus Christi, Texas San Antonio Machine and Supply Company Box 671 Harlingen, Texas Laura J. Russell Area Housing and Home Furnishings Specialist CLEANING WALLS IN FLOODED HOUSES Allow plaster to dry thoroughly before washing it. Brush off loose surface dirt. Wash painted walls with water and mild soap or a good commercial cleaner. Have one container of w ater containing the cleaning solution; another for clean water for rinsing and large sponges or cloths. Wash the area you can reach easily without changing your position. Rinse it immediately; dry. Then wash the next area, overlapping the first and precede until the wall is finished. Badly stained walls will need redecorating. Wanda Meyer Home Management Specialist HOW TO CLEAN A FREEZER What can you do with a freezer when the power is cut off, food spoils and you find out about it several days later? Don't discard the freezer, you can clean it: Try these methods: -Soap and water. First try washing all the interior sur- faces of the freezer with plenty of soap and water. Then go over them with a cloth wrung from clear water. Wipe dry. - Soda water. If soap and water does not remove the odor, wash the freezer with soda water, using one teaspoon baking soda to each quart of warm water. - Vinegar or household ammonia. If the odor persists, try vinegar, using about one cup to a gallon of water, or household ammonia in the same proportions. - Heat. Try using heat to bring out the odor particles and get them into the air. To do this, put something like a toaster or electric heater inside the freezer to heat it. Then use an electric fan a couple of hours to blow the air out. - Activited charcoal. Place activated charcoal in the warm freezer to absorb odors released by the heat. Leave charcoal in the freezer for several hours. If the odor still persists, it very likely has seeped out of the freezer into the insulation material. In this case, the insulation panels will have to be replaced. Ask your dealer to have his service man replace the panels for you. Foods and Nutrition Specialists WHAT SHOULD YOU DO WITH FOOD IF IT THAWS? You can refreeze thawed fruits. Fruits usually ferment when they start to spoil. A little fermentation will not make fruits dangerous to eat, but it may spoil their flavor. So you can refreeze thawed fruits if they still taste and smell good. Or you can use them in cooking and baking or for making jams, jellies, and preserves. Be careful when you refreeze thawed meats and poultry. Meats and poultry become unsafe to eat when they start to spoil. There— fore, examine each package of food before you decide what to do with it. If the food still contains some ice crystals, it may safely be refrozen, even though the quality may suffer. It is often wiser to eat food that is com— pletely thawed than to refreeze it. Be sure to cook it thoroughly, however. If the odor of thawed food is poor or questionable, get rid of the food. It may be dangerous! Be careful when you refreeze vegetables, shellfish and cooked foods. Often, you can't tell by the odor whether vegetables, shellfish, and cooked foods have spoiled. Bacteria multiply rapidly in these foods, even at 50 F. So don't refreeze any of these foods when they have thawed completely. If ice crystals are still in the food, you can refreeze it immediately. Usually it is safe to do so, even though the quality may suffer. If the condition of the food is poor or questionable, get rid of it. It may be dangerous! REFREEZE FOOD QUICKLY When you refreeze thawed food, freeze it quickly. If your freezer is full of warmed foods, to get a quick refreeze it is best to take the food to a commercial locker plant. Chill to 0 F. or below before taking the food back to your home freezer. Wrap the food well with newspapers and blankets before moving it to or from the freezer plant. - 2 - To refreeze food in your own freezer, rearrange the food to get the warmer packages against the refrigerated surface, if possible. Pile the packages so that the air can circulate around them. This means quicker freezing. If the freezer cabinet is too full, move some of the colder packages to the refrigerator, and return them gradually to the freezer. USE DRY ICE IF YOU CAN GET IT If locker space is not available and it looks as though the freezer would be stopped for longer than a day, use dry ice if you can get it. The more dry ice you use, the longer the food will keep frozen. Fifty pounds will keep the temperature down to 15 F. for about 2 days in an average -size freezer. You may be able to buy dry ice from a local dairy or a cold - storage warehouse. From: L -312, That to do When Your Home Freezer Stops" - U.S.D.A. Laura J. Russell Area Housing and Home Furnishings Specialist WASHING PILLOWS They can be laundered successfully in your automatic washer. Wash two pillows at a time for a balanced load. To be sure that no feathers fly, examine ticking carefully and mend any tears or open seams. Wet pillows before placing them in the washer—otherwise, they will float. To do this, make a two —inch opening on each end, then close it with a loose basting stitch. This allows water to enter but prevents feathers from escaping. Place the pillow in a pan of water and knead gently until it is thoroughly soaked. Wash in warm water for about five or six minutes, then allow the washer to complete rinse cycle. Follow the same procedure in washing foam rubber, dacron or acrilon pillows. But they must be washed in a case. Close the end of the pillow case with a basting stitch before soaking the pillow. Down comforters and those filled with dacron and acrilon or wool may also be washed with warm but never hot water. Use special setting for drying or on medium setting if there is no special setting for drying. Laura J. Russell Area Housing and Home Furnishings Specialist BEDDING Follow directions of your public health service for all necessary disinfecting of surfaces and household articles. Most washable articles such as towels, pillow cases, sheets, some draperies and curtains can be disinfected during the washing process. Disinfecting should help to prevent further damage from mildew, odors and souring. Mattresses and heavy comforters soaked with flood waters are generally damaged beyond use and should be discarded. It may be desirable to dry and use bedding wet from rain or only partially wet. Foam rubber mattresses should be dried in the shade. Sun is very damaging to foam rubber. Removing cloth covering from foam rubber mattresses will hasten drying. Clean and renovate the cover while the mattress is drying. Cotton and innerspring mattresses should be placed in the sun for drying. These should be placed on saw horses or other supports which will allow air to reach as much of the surface as possible. Laura J. Russell Area Housing and Home Furnishings Specialists SHAMPOOING FURNITURE CARPETS AND RUGS In most instances, it will be desirable to dry furniture, rugs or carpeting before attempting to do the final cleaning. If it is determined that these are to be cleaned at home, use a vacuum cleaner to remove as much dirt and soil as possible. For oil and grease spots it will be advisable to do a spotting job with a dry cleaner. Work from the outside of the spot to the center. Commercial preparations for suds cleaning may be used or suds may be made by dissolving a half cup of neutral soap or detergent, flakes, beads or chips in one quart of hot, soft water. If the water is hard, more soap will be needed to make stiff suds. Beat the cooled solution with an egg beater until you have thick, dry lather. Apply the lather to a small area at a time using a soft brush or cloth. Use a light circular motion. Do not rub the lather deeply into the material. Scraps off the soiled suds with a spatula or dull knife. Use absorbent cloth or sponge that has been wrung out dry in clean luke warm water to rinse, using a circular motion. Rinse a second time in the same way. Thorough rinsing is necessary to make sure that no soap remains in the material. Use as little water as possible and be sure it does not soak through the cover. Work gently, change rinse water whenever it becomes soiled. Wipe the fabric thoroughly with a dry cloth using finishing strokes in the direction of the pile or weave. Repeat this process in another small area, lightly overlapping the one previously treated. When the entire cover has been shampooed, wipe it thoroughly with a clean cloth. Place it in an airy place to dry, but keep it out of direct sunlight. If the fabric has a pile, brush it while damp in the direction of the pile. Laura J. Russell Area Housing and Home Furnishings Specialist REIMOVING WHITE SPOTS FROM WOOD FURNITURE Furniture which has been submerged may have white spots or whitish film from dampness. Try rubbing with a cloth dipped in a mixture of 2 cup of household ammonia and cup water. Wipe dry at once and wax or polish. Smaller white spots may be removed by rubbing with camphorated oil or by a drop or two of ammonia on a damp cloth. Rub dry with a soft cloth and polish. Cigarette ashes rubbed in with the finger tips may be effective in removing white spots. White spots may also be removed by rubbing with salt and salad oil. Dip the finger in oil, then in salt and then rub. Repeat until white spot disappears; dry and polish. A paste made of powdered pumice or rotten stone may be rubbed over the spot with a soft cloth until the spots disappear. If required rubbing removes the surface finish, the rubbed area may need refinishing. CLEANING LEATHER COVERED FURNITURE Leather covered furniture can be washed with suds in much the same way as fabrics. When the surface is dry, if it appears dull, polish it with a bit of neats foot oil or clear shoe paste. Never use furniture polish or oil on leather as it may cause stickiness.